A recently bought house with mould at the reveals in room after room. Surveyed in heavy rain, every reveal read dry. The cause was the coldest strip of wall in the house, and it would still be the coldest strip with any window fitted.
The owners had bought the house recently and found mould around the window frames. In their words: "We were told before we moved in that the windows and trickle vents had not been opened. Since we moved in the trickle vents have been kept open all the time."
Mould at a window is the single most misdiagnosed thing in this trade. It is read as a leak, as a failed window, or as rising damp, and it is very often none of the three.
A semi detached house of 1850 to 1918, solid brick walls one brick thick, pebbledashed externally, with uPVC windows. The master bedroom, bedroom 2, the living room, the porch and the utility room were surveyed, with bedroom 3, which is unaffected, as the comparison room.
The inspection was carried out in heavy rain. That was not bad luck. It is the best possible condition in which to test whether water is entering at a window, and it is the reason this survey could exclude penetrating damp rather than merely fail to find it.
The pattern was the same in every affected room. Mould sitting on the sealant joint between frame and plaster, and on the plaster immediately beside it. Underneath it, nothing.
| Measured | Result |
|---|---|
| Control readings, internal partitions | Lo, below 6 %WME |
| Every reveal and adjoining wall, beneath the growth | Lo, below 6 %WME |
| Room conditions | 23 to 24 °C, 59 to 63% RH |
| Dew points | 14.6 to 16.5 °C |
| Coldest surface each room, above dew point | 5.9 to 9 °C |
| Thermal images of every reveal | No wet patch, no cold spot at the frames |
| Utility room, crack beside the external door | 18.5 %WME, the only elevated reading in the house |
| Utility room relative humidity | 72%, against 59 to 63% elsewhere |
Established growth, in the condensation position, with dry surfaces beneath it, and nothing coming through from outside in heavy rain. No condensation was occurring anywhere in the house on the day, with the trickle vents open.
In a solid, uninsulated brick wall the strip where the window frame meets the wall is a thermal bridge. It runs colder than the wall around it whenever the room is warmer than the outside, so it is the first surface in the room to reach dew point, and moisture in the room air condenses there before anywhere else.
That is why the growth sits on the sealant joint and the plaster right beside it, in room after room, and nowhere else in those rooms. It is not a coincidence and it is not the windows failing.
The windows themselves are sound. The reveals behind them are dry, and the thermal images show no cold spot at the frames. The mould sits on the strip of wall where the frame meets solid brick, and that strip would remain the coldest surface in the room with any window fitted. Replacing the windows would not address the cause.
The one place where new windows would help is the porch, which has no trickle vents. When those windows are next due for replacement, units with trickle vents would give it the background ventilation it lacks. That is a matter for when they need replacing, not before.
Note what that list does. It excludes penetrating damp positively, on the evidence of a survey carried out in the rain, rather than saying it could not be found. Those are very different statements, and only one of them is worth anything to a buyer, a solicitor or a lender.
The utility room is a small room with no background ventilation, no extract and a door undercut of 1mm, containing a gas boiler in an unventilated alcove immediately beside a washing machine. Relative humidity there was 72%, against 59 to 63% in the rest of the house, and the dew point of 18.5 degrees is the highest in the building.
The wall inside the boiler alcove reads dry. The peeling paint and mould are on the wall to the right of the external door, where a crack in the plaster reads 18.5 %WME. Warm, moist air from the appliances is entering the crack and condensing behind the plaster, where it cannot dry.
That is a moisture production problem, not a building fault, and ventilating the room and sealing the crack deals with it.
Fourteen photographs from the survey, exactly as taken.
Ventilate the utility room and seal the crack beside the external door, within three months. An extract or a permanent vent.
Clean the mould off with detergent and water or a mould and mildew cleaner and dry the surface thoroughly. There is no need for bleach. The point is to remove the growth, not to kill it. Where the sealant is stained through, cut it out and replace it with a mould resistant one.
Keep the trickle vents open through the winter, as they are now.
Make good the external sealant and refix the guttering before next winter. Neither is causing damp inside today. The point of doing them is to keep it that way.
Give the porch some ventilation and clean its reveals the same way.
Do not treat this as a damp proofing problem. There is nothing for a damp proof course, tanking or chemical treatment to address. Do not replaster the reveals on account of the mould, because the plaster is dry and the growth is on the surface. Do not seal the trickle vents or block ventilation to keep the rooms warmer, which would recreate the conditions that caused the growth in the first place.
The report records this as highly probable on the evidence, not confirmed, and names what would close the gap: the first cold months. If the growth does not return with the trickle vents open and the utility room ventilated, the mould was historic condensation and the matter is closed. If it does return, a temperature and humidity logger in the master bedroom and the utility room over two weeks would show whether the room air is reaching dew point at the reveals. Benchmark: the reveals reading Lo, as now.
Fixed fee from £350. We carry out no remedial work, sell no products, and take no commission or referral fee from anyone who carries out repairs.
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